Tuesday, May 20, 2008

meet me in Munich (bring an umbrella)


The sights I see throughout the rest of my trip will have a hard time comparing to the thick clouds hanging over the Alps in Bavaria, seen from hundreds of feet in the clear, clean air from the cliffside castle. They towered over the stunning town of Salzburg, with its steeples and bauble buildings and cathedrals and clock towers, gardens and cozy alleyways and storefronts. I felt as though I couldn't look at them long enough, and like my body was nearing the point of collapse, their affect and sublimity were so staggering & overpowering.

In those moments of basking in their glory and feeling my heart tighten (my soul brighten) everything we struggled through yesterday morning was more than worth it.


We had to get up at 6 to drive to Minden, but neither me or Kellen slept more than 2 hours. As Verena drove us there, there was a fine, still mist hanging over the cold German countryside, you could literally feel your lungs aching for more of the consummate fresh air.

It started by missing our second train, and having to catch one an hour later...which put us behind schedule with meeting Kellen's best friend and her best friend's girlfriend. When we got to the station at Munich, we got off on the wrong one- apparently there are two stations, and we were supposed to wait to get off until the central...whcih we didn't realize until after wandering around and seeing the lack of a Starbucks (our meeting place) and a "huge Coca Cola sign" (a marker). We called the hostel to get directions and found information in the station and they told us to get back on the train and get off on the other Munich stop....so we did, and then had trouble following the vague directions the hostel gave us...well, they weren't too vague, we were a little turned around. (psssh...women) When we finally found the hostel, which was actually less than a block from the station, we tried the wrong entrance first, and then after going into the right door into the lobby, and getting Jessica's room number, we went up the wrong stairs to another wrong door (locked) and had to make our way back. We eventually found where we needed to go, by this time, ready for one of Munich's famous hefeweizens (beirgardens, ver bist du?)....and this is when Jessica walked out of her room at the exact moment Kellen walked up to it, and they literally fell into each others arms with relief and happiness. It was one of those moments you wished you had captured on film, but wouldn't have been done any justice through photographs/video anyway. Kellen referred to Jessica as her soulmate, and after spending the time with them together that I have been the past couple of days, I can see what she means. I know what it feels like to have such an indescribable bond with a best friend, her and Jess remind me of myself and someone...but unfortunately, not all such connections remain as unshakable as you think them to be.

We hopped on a train to Austria (Salzburg) as soon as we dropped our stuff in their room, which they were so kind to share for the night. Hey- when you're on a budget, you don't mind sharing a bed with 3 other girls (we didn't have to pay anything last night, thanks to them)...spooning, anyone?

We saw some gardens in Salzburg that were really beautiful...even with all the flowers not in full bloom. The city itself is one of those that you don't hear about often, it's tucked away into the corner of the world and gets overlooked- but it is such a hidden jewel, and I felt so lucky to be able to experience it. Not everyone gets to see such spectacular sights in their lifetime, and truly appreciate the diverse virtues of this earth. I took some amazing pictures that I will be putting up soon, but the one here gives you an idea of how gorgeous this city is. After roaming the gardens and a little Austrian market to get snacks, we walked through the streets of the downtown district, which was really quaint and close together.. (cozy Europeans) apparently the city is where classical music was "born," because it was where Mozart was born and lived. It has some sweet music shops and a cute seafood place we found- as for dessert, the signature chocolate there is strange, and has something that looks like pistachio in the center- but after the intital weirdness we decided it was delicious. After seeing a trolley looking cart moving up some tracks towards the fortress we had seen in the hills above the city, we investigated and found out we could ride it "for a small fee" (you hear that a lot here) and go up to the castle, where the best views in the city were.

And indeed, the views of the city were breathtaking, at the very least- you get a true sense of it that you can't get from just walking around, strolling its streets. BUT, the true engulfing sight were the mountains. Nothing I could possibly say could describe what they look like from that altitude, so close, you could reach out and caress their jagged angles and gentle quilt-covering of clouds. Being so near them, and experiencing the tranquility and longing that fills me, makes me wonder how I have lived so many years of my life nowhere near them.

We rode the train home tired and satisfied, reliving our elementary school days when we lived for those gym field day activities- the parachutes, flat board scooters, gigantic balls... to be a kid again, I would give almost anything sometimes. Those were some of the best days of our lives, but you never know it until you get older and remember how new everything was, how colorful, how creative you were, unspoiled meat with no preservatives (until a certain point). One of my favorite things about this journey so far has been how much it makes me feel like a little girl again, regardless of how much I have grown. I am seeing everything from freshly opened eyes, quiet with awe, and inquisitive, wanting to know and see as much as I possibly can. It was Jessica and Candace's last night in Germany, so we went out to celebrate- sans Candace, who had an early train to catch. Surprisingly, the place we found most alive with young students our age was the bar in our hostel...but we ventured out anyway and found an interesting place that I wont go into much detail about- let's just say the beers were overpriced, and the atmosphere very...different. We had fun regardless, and munched on falafel sandwiches. {They were out of this world, but not the best idea...after rigorous brushing, our bed still reeked of onions-strong enough to make your eyes water even from the depths of someone's stomach.}Kellen and Jessica's muted giggling and whispering brought back more familiar memories, and it was so refreshing to see that friendships like that still exist, and be reminded that the "sister" i once had wasn't a figment of my imagination. We fell asleep a few stories above the still-noisy (at 330 am) streets of Munich, windows open to let the night crawl inside.

Free breakfast this morning- Europeans sure have the toast and jam with tea thing down. We strolled the streets of the city- which has been pretty chilly and drizzly-and saw the clock tower Munich is famous for, (the architecture here is mind boggling, the clock tower being on the top of the list). The streets are vibrant with flags, shops, and brilliant odd shaped lights and fountains....but my favorite thing is how they smell of sweet, just out of the oven bread, no matter what part of Munich you are in. The street markets are full of fresh veggies and fruit, and we grabbed a bag of rich, bright red cherries, which were the best I've ever had, by far. We went to this amazing "cellar" restaurant underneath it that stretched on forever that Jessica had been to before to have some "real" German beer- which, after drinking, puts all other beer to shame (might come back a little spoiled). PS, if anyone ever visits this city, go to this place- Ratskellar- it has the most divine potato soup you'll ever taste.

Today was extremely intense for me and Kellen. After we said bye to Jess, we took a train to Dachau, which was the first concentration camp, the one used to model all other camps built afterwards....it's been turned into a memorial/museum, and is bursting at the seams with history and melacholy tributes to the prisoners that suffered there. The things I saw, the memories not belonging to me- they hit very deep, carving themselves into my mind. I will write more specifically about this next time I blog- I wrote down much more in my journal- but my computer is losing power- soooo, to be continued!

If we weren't so strapped for cash, we would have been boarding an overnight train to Budapest on a whim tonight...we both desperately wanted to go(mmmm, temples and hot springs), but not for the price we would have had to pay. Tomorrow bright and early we board a train (I'm growing to love the trains and stations) to Prague.

All the belongings in my possession are locked in a locker, my veins are tingling, I'm making minature homes wherever I go, and then giving them up to pursue truth elsewhere. It's only 3 over yonder, hope the sun is warming American soils, I love you all so much!

1 comment:

ragin said...

Wish I could, wish I were in your suitcase, would get better sleep. Love you DD, check in later. Forever and always, MD