Friday, May 23, 2008

no words

Prague has already grown on me so much, I believe it is one of my top two favorite cities I have ever been in. Let me just begin by saying- the colors here are captivating, like nothing else I have words for. From the long stretch of buildings, rising and falling throughout the hills, that we saw from high atop the church cathedral, to the cobblestone streets, and the shops full of treasures, crystal, puppets, the shades of colors are magical and ethereal. Even the hostel we are staying at (which by the way, is amazing), the Clown and Bard hostel, has the most unique hallways of purples and pinks, neon dayglow orange couches, pink striped curtains on yellow windows, blue walls... if Munich stimulated my sense of smell, Prague does the same, except ten times over, for my overwhelmed eyes, hungry to take it all in and remember it always.

The city definitely welcomed us with fervor. We got here fairly late in the day, having caught a later train from Munich, and after the long trek uphill to our hostel and having some Czech pizza (Italian style, with egg on top) and pasta at a cute cafe, we got settled into our temporary home, meeting our flatmates, 3 guys from Canada. We knew we would get along with them right away when we got to the room, even before meeting them, seeing the tattoo ointment on the table. The hostel situation is much better here- bunking with 4 others instead of 50, like in Munich, with our own kitchen and shower to share. Kellen and I went downstairs to the super adorable bar to have a couple of drinks and met two guys from Chicago that were really nice, Raul and Pauly, and we made friends with them quickly. They were old college buddies on the tail end of a bout of Europe traveling, about to head home. Apparently, they need to have a WARNING sign attached to their heads if you want to drink with them! Paul has the tolerance of no one I've ever seen, and I guess we were feeling a little confident about our own, after Germany, Kellen especially. Amongst all the chatting and laughing, Kellen didn't realize she was subconsciously trying to keep up with them (they were drinking much faster and more than we were)....and when they tell you the beer is stronger everywhere in Europe, they don't lie. Although we were only having Budweiser, Prague's version of it is akin to something much stronger than what we're used to, maybe more like a light version of Zeigen, I don't know....and after a few glasses, and the lack of food we had all day (stuck on trains for 6 hours) until dinner, I think it caught up with her. However, the icing on the cake was the shot of absinthe we took for my pre-birthday celebration, which we did the almost completely traditional way, lighting the sugar on fire and all. Let me just say- that stuff is ridiculously potent (I know, you're probably like "duh, Christina...it's absinthe" but I guess we weren't ready for it). We were all quiet for a couple of minutes afterwards, I think because our mouths were a little numb (70 proof liquor will do that to you)....and I think right away Kellen realized she made a mistake, she looked a little shaken up. She was almost instantly out of it- absinthe seems to make you go from buzzed to drunk in .7 seconds- and needless to say, it didn't stay in her for long...I ended up holding her hair back that night, and scratching her back until she fell asleep afterwards. It was one of those times you end up drunk without really meaning to, getting caught up in the moment and not pacing yourself- happens to the best of us. She was in good hands though- Paul is about to graduate from medical school, and our roommates looked after her too. Anyway, no more absinthe for her, and as for me...I did ok, I guess it's my German and Irish roots holding strong, but we'll see how my tolerance is the next couple of nights for my birthday celebrations, Kellen is convinced she'll be returning the favor and holding my hair back, although in the years since I started drinking, I have only thrown up from alcohol 3 times. Don't worry- we'll be safe, at least the hostel has a bar so all we have to do is walk upstairs to our room (5 flights will be interesting after a night of debauchery, I'm still not sure how Kellen made them the first night.)

We met up with Raul and Paul yesterday morning again and together we all explored the glorious sights of Prague....gorgeous cathedrals, churches, domes, and old buildings everywhere, no matter where you look, there is something else to see and revel in. We got lost in the winding streets, both literally and figuratively (but getting lost in Prague is not something you mind in the least, you find so many pleasures and surprises you wouldn't otherwise)..among hidden stairways and alleyways and the Charles bridge, watching a quirky little group of musicians, one of them wielding and playing a washboard- extremely well, might i say- cellos, clarinets, etc. People gathered round to cheer them on and toss korunas (czech "crowns") in their open guitar case. After walking around for hours, from one end of Prague to another, it came to my attention what I love most about Europe...it is so ancient, with lingering pieces of the past in each and every nook and cranny. America is so fresh faced like a child, and modern, but the cities here are so proud of their history, and hold on to it- you see it in the miles of spectacular old buildings, the structures that have been here since the 1200s and seen thing that no one could possibly imagine...everything gives off these vibes of wisdom, each inch of the dark stone and brick, and somehow it all remains so preserved. We fell head over heels for this city the second we stepped foot in it. There is no true wrong turn here...no matter where you end up, there is something new to discover.
We had a fantastic Czech lunch, Kellen got goulash, and we had a round of really great dark beer that tasted like Newcastle, only richer and better. We finally got gelato for the first time, which was out of this world...but Kellen says it's nothing compared to the gelato in Italy, and according to everyone I know who has been there, you practically live off of it there (mmmm, a diet of wine, gelato, and cheese). We stumbled upon something pretty unexpected (such a lovely mistake) while we were on our way to see the biggest and most beautifully elaborate cathedral in Prague (I have never seen architecture like that in my life, ever....it makes you feel like someone has punched you in the stomach, it takes your breath away so fast). It was this really long procession of priests, monks, and men in white robes and hats, carrying candles and waving the sacred incense- the smell of which will stay with me forever...it raised goosebumps on my skin, and the four of us stood there transfixed as hundreds of people following these men joined in their strange, otherworldly chanting. Although we can't speak the slightest bit of Czech, not even thank you, there are some sounds in this world that can move all humans alike, no matter the language- you don't have to understand the actual words to understand, to feel the meaning behind it, and sense the holiness. It was something I have no way of describing- funny how many times I have written that about Europe, it seems to be normal to experience the unspeakable around these parts, and I have no complaints. There are bounties to discover here that I haven't quite found in other cities, although some have come very close, and touched me in different ways (I still can't get the mountains from Austria out of my mind.)

We are still not adjusted to the bars and clubs that stay open until 5 in the morning, and I think I sweated out enough water to fill buckets last night, dancing into the wee hours of the morning to hilarious 90s songs, some of which I cringe to remember...Daft punk, yessssssss. We met some truly amazing people yesterday and last night, a lot of Canadian girls and boys that joined us for drinking games and then walking through the late night streets of Prague to a big, hidden night club with a stage with room for lots of gyrating-room....the people here are nonstop, when we left after 330, the club was still full to the brim. This is definitely a city for sharing everything, not only good times...where you get different beers ad dishes so you can try someone else's food, where you look with wide, amazed eyes at everything surrounding you, at the gurgling river beneath the historical bridge, at the red rooftops-together, where you walk as a large, laughing group under the streetlights, forming bonds with people that are practically strangers but you feel as though you've known forever. This is the type of place I want everyone I have ever known and loved to see and experience, and I wish I could take the entire city, and what I have learned and experienced already, after only two nights (two spectacular nights) of being here, home with me. There is so much to explore, and not only in the city- but in the parts of yourself the city brings to the surface from the depths of your spirit.

My birthday is tomorrow (tonight at midnight, yall! yes, I had to say it, I do miss Texas)...pray for me a little, haha...it's going to be a wild ride.

1 comment:

ragin said...

Happy, happy, happy 21st Birthday to you, smart, lovely, beautiful(inside and out) daughter of mine, Wish I could be there but you wouldnt have any fun. BEEEEEE SAFE! Momma